Genetics Won’t Save You: How to Properly Care for Melanated Skin

Hi beautiful people!!!

Let’s get straight into it. As a Licensed Esthetician and proud melanated queen, I understand just how much genetics plays a huge role in the quality of our skin. However, after studying and becoming a laser specialist, I concluded that darker skin, specifically Fitzpatrick 4-6, requires different handling. A common misconception amongst those with darker skin is, “Black don’t crack!” Please allow me to burst ya bubble. Black does in fact crack, (LOL), it just takes longer for signs of aging and sun damage to appear. Darker skin is more prone to hyperpigmentation, discoloration, and even scarring. We with darker skin tones must be mindful when selecting skincare products and treatments. We may inherit beautiful, smooth, and radiant skin, but not the necessary knowledge to maintain it. Read on to learn how to properly care for yOUR Black skin.

Our melanin is a natural shield, but not an invincible one. It acts as a natural sunscreen by absorbing and dissipating UV rays. Studies show that darker skin has an inherent SPF of about 13. While this is absolutely fascinating, please understand that it doesn’t eliminate your chances of getting sunburn or, worse, skin cancer. I recommend using an SPF of at least 30 every day of the year. As stated earlier, darker skin is prone to persistent hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation naturally due to sun exposure. Wearing SPF is not only a “white person” thing, it is your absolute responsibility.

Because melanated skin has more reactive melanocytes, hyperpigmentation happens easily and lasts longer. Any minor bruise, cut, injury, or irritation to the skin can and likely will cause changes to your dark skin. Avoid picking at pimples or excessively scratching the skin, especially if you have eczema or psoriasis. As a dark woman whose main skin concern is hyperpigmentation, I know personally how the most minor injury can affect your self-esteem.

Best Professional Treatments for Darker Skin (Fitzpatrick 4-6)

Chemical Peels (Mandelic acid, lactic acid, and low-strength TCA) are great for treating hyperpigmentation without causing excessive irritation.

Microneedling helps stimulate collagen, improve skin texture, and fades dark spots.

Laser Treatments but only Nd YAG lasers (1064nm) because they are safest for darker skin with little to no risk of hyperpigmentation or burns.

Hydrafacial provides hydration, and gentle exfoliation, and brightens skin without irritation.

Best Ingredients for Darker Skin

Niacinamide reduces inflammation, minimizes dark spots, and strengthens the skin barrier.

Vitamin C brightens, protects against UV damage, and evens skin tone.

Azelaic acid is great for hyperpigmentation, acne, and rosacea without irritating darker skin.

Mandelic Acid & Lactic Acid (both AHAs) offer gentle exfoliation without excessive irritation or risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

SPF 30+ (broad spectrum) is essential for preventing dark spots from worsening.

I hope you find this post helpful. I offer virtual consultations for those who need help understanding their skin and building a skincare routine. Thank you!

As always, with love-take care of your skin, and it will take care of you.

H